The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one silicone copolymer defined below, with a dynamic viscosity ranging from 1xc3x97106 to 100xc3x97106 cP and at least one cationic polymer.
It is well known that hair that has been sensitized (i.e. damaged and/or embriftled) to varying degrees under the action of atmospheric agents or mechanical or chemical treatments, such as dyes, bleaches and/or permanent-waving, can be often difficult to disentangle and to style, and may lack softness.
It has already been recommended to use conditioners, in particular cationic polymers or silicones, in compositions for washing or caring for keratin materials such as the hair, in order to facilitate the disentangling of the hair and to give it softness and suppleness. However, the cosmetic advantages mentioned above can be accompanied, on dried hair, by certain cosmetic effects considered undesirable, i.e., lankness of the hairstyle (lack of lightness of the hair) and lack of smoothness (hair not uniform from the root to the tip).
In addition, the use of cationic polymers for this purpose may have various drawbacks. On account of their high affinity for the hair, some of these polymers can become deposited thereon to a large extent during repeated use, and may lead to adverse effects such as an unpleasant, laden feel, stiffening of the hair and interfiber adhesion which may affect styling. These drawbacks may be more accentuated in the case of fine hair, which lacks liveliness and body.
In summary, it is found that the current cosmetic compositions comprising cationic polymers are not always entirely satisfactory.
The inventors have now discovered that the combination of at least one silicone copolymer defined below, with a dynamic viscosity ranging from 1xc3x97106 to 100xc3x97106 cP, with at least one cationic polymer makes it possible to overcome at least one of these drawbacks.
Thus, after considerable research conducted in this matter, the inventors have found that by introducing at least one silicone copolymer with a dynamic viscosity ranging from 1xc3x97106 to 100xc3x97106 cP, into compositions, such as hair compositions containing at least one cationic polymer, it is possible to limit, or even eliminate, at least one of the problems generally associated with the use of such compositions, i.e., for example, the lankness (charged feel following repeated applications) and the lack of smoothness and softness of the hair, while at the same time retaining at least one of the other advantageous cosmetic properties which are associated with conditioner-based compositions.
Moreover, when applied to the skin, for example in the form of a bubble bath or shower gel, the compositions of the invention can provide an improvement in the softness of the skin.
Thus, according to the present invention, cosmetic compositions are now proposed comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one silicone copolymer defined below, wherein said copolymer has a dynamic viscosity ranging from 1xc3x97106 to 100xc3x97106 cP, and at least one cationic polymer.
Another subject of the invention relates to the use of at least one silicone copolymer defined below, with a dynamic viscosity ranging from 1xc3x97106 to 100xc3x97106 cP, in, or for the manufacture of, a cosmetic composition comprising at least one cationic polymer.
The various subjects of the invention will now be described in detail. All the meanings and definitions of the compounds used in the present invention given below are valid for all the subjects of the invention.
The at least one silicone copolymer results from the addition reaction, in the presence of a catalyst, of at least:
(a) one polysiloxane of formula (I): 
xe2x80x83in which:
R1, which may be identical or different, are independently chosen from groups that can react by chain addition reaction such as, for example, a hydrogen atom or aliphatic groups comprising an ethylenic unsaturation, such as vinyl, allyl and hexenyl groups;
R2 in formula (I), which may be identical or different, are independently chosen from hydroxyl, alkyl, alkenyl, cycloalkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups, and can optionally further comprise functional groups chosen from ethers, amines, carboxyls, hydroxyls, thiols, esters, sulfonates and sulfates; wherein:
the alkyl groups comprise, for example, 1 to 20 carbon atoms; the alkenyl groups comprise, for example, from 2 to 10 carbon atoms; the cycloalkyl groups comprise, for example, 5 or 6 carbon atoms; the aryl groups comprise, for example, phenyl groups; and the alkylaryl groups comprise, for example, from 7 to 20 carbon atoms;
In one embodiment, R2 is chosen from methyl.
n is an integer wherein the polysiloxane of formula (I) has a kinematic viscosity ranging from 1 to 1xc3x97106 mm2/s, for example, for example n may range from 5 to 5000; and
(b) at least one silicone compound comprising at least one and not more than two groups capable of reacting with the groups R1 of the polysiloxane (a), wherein:
at least one of the compounds of type (a) and (b) comprises an aliphatic group, such as a C2-C6aliphatic group, comprising an ethylenic unsaturation.
The compounds of type (b) can be another polysiloxane of type (a) in which at least one and not more than two groups R1 of the polysiloxane (b) can react with the groups R1 of the polysiloxane (a).
In one embodiment, the at least one silicone copolymer is obtained by addition reaction, in the presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst (for example a platinum catalyst), of at least:
(a) one xcex1,xcfx89-divinylpolydimethylsiloxane, and
(b) one xcex1,xcfx89-dihydrogenopolydimethylsiloxane.
The silicone copolymer generally has a dynamic viscosity, measured at a temperature of about 25xc2x0 C. and at a shear rate of 0.01 Hz for a stress of 1500 Pa, ranging from 1xc3x97106 to 100xc3x97106 cP, such as ranging from 5xc3x97106 cP to 30xc3x97106 cP.
All the dynamic viscosity measurements given in the present patent application were taken at a temperature of about 25xc2x0 C., on a Carri-Medium CSL2-500 machine.
The kinematic viscosity is measured, for example, at 25xc2x0 C. according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.
The at least one silicone copolymer according to the invention is essentially non-crosslinked, i.e., not crosslinked to an extent sufficient to be referred to as a crosslinked copolymer.
Another subject of the invention relates to compositions wherein the at least one silicone copolymer present in the composition is in the form of an aqueous emulsion.
The expression xe2x80x9caqueous emulsionxe2x80x9d means an emulsion of oil-in-water type in which the at least one silicone copolymer is dispersed, such as in the form of particles or droplets, in the aqueous phase forming the continuous phase of the emulsion. This emulsion can be stabilized with a common emulsifying system.
This silicone emulsion can have a silicone droplet or particle size ranging from 10 nm to 50 xcexcm, such as from 0.3 xcexcm to 20 xcexcm. The particle size is measured by laser granulometry.
The emulsifying system comprises at least one surfactant commonly used in silicone emulsions. These surfactants may be nonionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric, or mixtures thereof, such as those described below.
The emulsifying system represents, for example, from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The synthesis of these silicone emulsions is described for example in patent application EP-A-874 017, the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference herein.
Such emulsions are sold for example under the name DC2-1997 Cationic Emulsion by the company Dow Coming. This emulsion comprises an xcex1,xcfx89-divinyl-dimethicone/xcex1,xcfx89-dihydrogenodimethicone copolymer with a dynamic viscosity of about 15xc3x97106 cP, an emulsifier of cationic type such as cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, a stabilizer such as hydroxyethylcellulose, and water.
The at least one silicone copolymer can be present in a representative amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous emulsion of the at least one silicone copolymer can be present in a representative amount ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cationic polymers which may be used in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from any of those already known to improve at least one cosmetic property of hair treated with detergent compositions, such as, for example, those described in patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference.
As used herein, xe2x80x9ccationic polymerxe2x80x9d refers to polymers chosen from polymers comprising at least one cationic groups and polymers comprising at least one group which can be ionized to form cationic groups.
According to the present invention, the at least one cationic polymer may be chosen from polymers which comprise at least one unit comprising at least one group chosen from primary amine groups, secondary amine groups, tertiary amine groups and quaternary amine groups, wherein said at least one group forms part of the polymer skeleton, or is carried by at least one lateral substituent on said polymer skeleton.
According to the present invention, the at least one cationic polymer has a number-average molecular mass generally ranging from about 500 to about 5xc3x97106, such as from about 1xc3x97103 to about 3xc3x97106.
The at least one cationic polymer may be chosen from polymers of quaternary polyammonium type, polymers of polyamino amide type and polymers of polyamine type. Such types of polymers are known in the art.
For example, polymers of the quaternary polyammonium type, polymers of polyamino amide type and polymers of polyamine type which can be used in accordance with the present invention comprise the polymers described in French patents Nos. 2,505,348 and 2,542,997, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein. Non-limiting examples of such polymers include:
(1) homo- and co-polymers derived from at least one monomer chosen from acrylic esters, methacrylic esters and amides, wherein said homo- and co-polymers comprise at least one unit chosen from units of formulae: 
xe2x80x83wherein:
R3, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from hydrogen atoms and CH3 groups;
A, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from linear and branched alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as 2 or 3 carbon atoms, and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and benzyl groups;
R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from hydrogen atoms and alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as methyl and ethyl;
Xxe2x88x92 is an anion chosen from anions derived from at least one inorganic acid and anions derived from at least one organic acid, such as methosulphate anions, and halide atoms, such as chloride atoms and bromide atoms.
Copolymers of family (1) may further comprise at least one unit derived from at least one comonomer chosen from acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides, wherein said at least one comonomer is substituted on the nitrogen with at least one group chosen from lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic acids, methacrylic acids, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinyllactams and vinyl esters. Non-limiting examples of vinyllactams include vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam.
Non-limiting examples of suitable copolymers are:
copolymers derived from at least one monomer of (i) acrylamide and (ii) dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with at least one group chosen from dimethyl sulphate and dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules;
copolymers derived from at least one monomer of (i) acrylamide and (ii) methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in patent application EP-A-080 976, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference, and which is sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy;
copolymers derived from at least one monomer of (i) acrylamide and (ii) methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate, such as, for example, copolymers sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules;
quaternized and non-quatemized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate copolymers and quatemized and non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name xe2x80x9cGafquatxe2x80x9d by the company ISP, such as, for example, xe2x80x9cGafquat 734xe2x80x9d or xe2x80x9cGafquat 755xe2x80x9d and the products known as xe2x80x9cCopolymer 845, 958 and 937xe2x80x9d. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference;
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP;
vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyidimethylamine copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP; and
quatemized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name xe2x80x9cGafquat HS 100xe2x80x9d by the company ISP;
(2) cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as those described in French patent 1,492,597, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference, and polymers sold under the names xe2x80x9cJRxe2x80x9d (JR 400, JR 125 and JR 30M) and xe2x80x9cLRxe2x80x9d (LR 400, or LR 30M) by the company Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose which has reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group;
(3) cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with at least one water-soluble monomer of quatemary ammonium, such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses (such as, for example, hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses, wherein said hydroxyalkylcelluloses are grafted with at least one salt chosen from, for example, methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium salts, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts and dimethyidiallylammonium salts). For example, commercial products corresponding to the aforementioned cationic cellulose derivatives include the products sold under the names xe2x80x9cCelquat L 200xe2x80x9d and xe2x80x9cCelquat H 100xe2x80x9d by the company National Starch;
(4) cationic polysaccharides, such as those described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference, such as guar gums comprising at least one cationic trialkylammonium group. For example, guar gums modified with at least one salt, such as a chloride salt, of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium may be used in the present invention. Such products are sold in particular under the trade names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Meyhall.
(5) polymers comprising (i) at least one piperazinyl unit and (ii) at least one group chosen from divalent alkylene groups and divalent hydroxyalkylene groups, wherein said at least one group optionally comprises at least one chain chosen from straight chains and branched chains, wherein said at least one chain is optionally interrupted by at least one entity chosen from oxygen atoms, sulphur atoms, nitrogen atoms, aromatic rings and heterocyclic rings, the oxidation products of said polymers and the quaternization products of said polymers. For example, such polymers are described in French patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference;
(6) water-soluble polyamino amides which may be prepared via at least one polycondensation reaction of at least one acidic compound and at least one polyamine compound, wherein said polyamino amides may be crosslinked with at least one crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, unsaturated dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, bis-halohydrins, bis-azetidiniums, bis-haloacyldiamines, bis-alkyl halides and oligomers derived from reaction of at least one difunctional compound with at least one compound chosen from bis-halohydrins, bis-azetidiniums, bis-haloacyldiamines, bis-alkyl halides, epihalohydrins, diepoxides and bis-unsaturated derivatives, wherein said crosslinking agent may be used in a proportion generally ranging from 0.025 mol to 0.35 mol per amine group of said polyamino amide, wherein said polyamino amides may optionally be alkylated, and wherein if said polyamino amides comprise at least one tertiary amine group, said polyamino amides may optionally be quaternized. For example, such polymers are described in French patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference;
(7) polyamino amide derivatives derived from condensation of at least one polyalkylene polyamine with at least one polycarboxylic acid, followed by alkylation with at least one difunctional agent. Non-limiting examples of such polyamino amide derivatives include adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers wherein the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl groups, ethyl groups and propyl groups. For example, such polymers are described in French patent 1,583,363, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference.
Other non-limiting examples of such derivatives include the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name xe2x80x9cCartaretine F, F4 or F8xe2x80x9d by the company Sandoz.
(8) polymers derived from reaction of (i) at least one polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with (ii) at least one dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. According to the present invention, the molar ratio of the at least one polyalkylene polyamine to the at least one dicarboxylic acid generally ranges from 0.8:1 to 1.4:1. The polyamino amide resulting from the above reaction may be reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the at least one secondary amine group of the polyamino amide generally ranges from 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. For example, such polymers are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference.
Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name xe2x80x9cHercoseft 57xe2x80x9d by the company Hercules Inc. and under the name xe2x80x9cPD 170xe2x80x9d or xe2x80x9cDelsette 101xe2x80x9d by the company Hercules in the case of adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymers.
(9) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine and cyclopolymers of of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers and copolymers comprising, as the main constituent of the chain, at least one unit chosen from units of formulae (VI) and (VIxe2x80x2): 
xe2x80x83wherein:
k and t, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from 0 and 1, with the proviso that the sum of k+t is equal to 1;
R12, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from hydrogen atoms and methyl groups;
R10 and R11, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, hydroxyalkyl groups wherein alkyl group optionally comprises from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, lower C1-C4 amidoalkyl groups, or R10 and R11, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are commonly attached, form at least one heterocyclic group, such as piperidyl groups and morpholinyl groups;
Yxe2x88x92 is an anion, such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulphate, bisulphite, sulphate and phosphate. For example, such polymers are described in French patent 2,080,759 and in its Certificate of Addition 2,190,406, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference.
In one embodiment, R10 and R11, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Non-limiting examples of the polymers defined above include the dimethyidiallyl-ammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name xe2x80x9cMerquat 100xe2x80x9d by the company Calgon (and its homologues of low weight-average molecular mass) and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, sold under the name xe2x80x9cMerquat 550xe2x80x9d.
(10) quatemary diammonium polymers comprising at least two repeating units of formula: 
xe2x80x83wherein:
R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from aliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, alicyclic groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, arylaliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups, or
at least two of said R13, R14, R15 and R16, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, form at least one heterocycle optionally comprising an additional heteroatom other than nitrogen, or
R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from linear and branched C1-C6 alkyl groups substituted with at least one group chosen from nitrile groups, ester groups, acyl groups, amide groups and groups chosen from groups of formulae xe2x80x94COxe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94R17xe2x80x94D and xe2x80x94COxe2x80x94NHxe2x80x94R17xe2x80x94D wherein R17 is chosen from alkylene groups and D is chosen from quaternary ammonium groups;
A1 and B1, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated polymethylene groups wherein said polymethylene groups may optionally comprise, optionally linked to and optionally intercalated in the main chain, at least one entity chosen from aromatic rings, oxygen atoms, sulphur atoms, sulphoxide groups, sulphone groups, disulphide groups, amino groups, alkylamino groups, hydroxyl groups, quaternary ammonium groups, ureido groups, amide groups and ester groups; and
Xxe2x88x92 is an anion chosen from anions derived from inorganic acids and anions derived from organic acids; and
A1, R13 and R15 may optionally form, together with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, at least one piperazine ring;
with the proviso that if A1 is chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated alkylene groups and linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated hydroxyalkylene groups, B1 may also be chosen from groups of formula:
(CH2)nxe2x80x94COxe2x80x94Dxe2x80x94OCxe2x80x94(CH2)nxe2x80x94
xe2x80x83wherein D is chosen from:
a) glycol residues of formula: xe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94Zxe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94, wherein Z is chosen from linear and branched hydrocarbon groups and groups chosen from groups of formulae:
xe2x80x94(CH2xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94O)xxe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94
and
xe2x80x94[CH2xe2x80x94CH(CH3)xe2x80x94O]yxe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94CH(CH3)xe2x80x94
xe2x80x83wherein x and y, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 4 (in which case x and y represent a defined and unique degree of polymerization) and any number ranging from 1 to 4 (in which case x and y represent an average degree of polymerization);
b) bis-secondary diamine residues such as piperazine derivatives;
c) bis-primary diamine residues chosen from residues of formula: xe2x80x94NHxe2x80x94Yxe2x80x94NHxe2x80x94, wherein Y is chosen from linear and branched hydrocarbon groups and residues of formula xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94Sxe2x80x94Sxe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94; and
d) ureylene groups of formula: xe2x80x94NHxe2x80x94COxe2x80x94NHxe2x80x94.
In one embodiment, Xxe2x88x92 is an anion chosen from chloride atoms and bromide atoms.
According to the present invention, the quarternary diammonium polymers have a number-average molecular mass generally ranging from 1000 to 100,000.
For example, polymers of this type are described in French Patent Nos. 2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027,020, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference.
Further, according to the present invention, polymers comprising at least two repeating units of formula (a) may be used: 
wherein:
R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to4 carbon atoms approximately;
n and p, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately; and
Xxe2x88x92 is an anion chosen from anions derived from inorganic acids and anoins derived from organic acids.
In one embodiment, R1, R2, R3 and R4 are chosen from methyl groups, n=3, p=6 and X=Cl. This unit is commonly known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.
(11) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising at least one unit of formula (VIII): 
xe2x80x83wherein:
R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from hydrogen atoms, methyl groups, ethyl groups, propyl groups, xcex2-hydroxyethyl groups, xcex2-hydroxypropyl groups and xe2x80x94CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH groups wherein p is an integer ranging from 0 to 6,
with the proviso that R18, R19, R20 and R21, are all not simultaneously chosen from hydrogen atoms;
r and s, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 6;
q is an integer ranging from 1 to 34;
Xxe2x88x92 is an anion, such as a halide,
A is chosen from dihalide groups and groups of formula xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94.
For example, such compounds are described in patent application EP-A-122,324, the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference.
Non-limiting examples of the polyquarternary ammonium polymers are xe2x80x9cMirapol A 15xe2x80x9d, xe2x80x9cMirapol AD1xe2x80x9d, xe2x80x9cMirapol AZ1xe2x80x9d and xe2x80x9cMirapol 175xe2x80x9d sold by the company Miranol.
(12) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and quaternary polymers of vinylimidazole, such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.
(13) polyamines, such as Polyquart H sold by Henkel under the reference name xe2x80x9cPolyethylene glycol (15) Tallow polyaminexe2x80x9d in the CTFA dictionary.
(14) crosslinked (meth)acryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salt polymers, such as the polymers derived from homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quatemized with methyl chloride and polymers derived from copolymerization, for example, of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with a methyl halide (such as chloride), wherein the homo- or copolymerization is followed by crosslinking with at least one compound comprising olefinic unsaturation, such as methylenebisacrylamide. For example, a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising about 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil may be used. This dispersion is sold under the name xe2x80x9cSalcare SC 92xe2x80x9d by the company Allied Colloids. Further, a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester may be used. These dispersions are sold under the names xe2x80x9cSalcare SC 95xe2x80x9d and xe2x80x9cSalcare SC 96xe2x80x9d by the company Allied Colloids.
Other cationic polymers which may be used as the at least one cationic polymer according to the present invention are cationic proteins, cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines (such as polyethyleneimines), polymers comprising at least one vinylpyridine unit, polymers comprising at least one vinylpyridinium unit, condensates of polyamines, condensates of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
For example, quaternary cellulose ether derivatives (such as the products sold under the name xe2x80x9cJR 400xe2x80x9d by the company Union Carbide Corporation), cationic cyclopolymers (such as the homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyidiallylammonium chloride, sold under the names xe2x80x9cMerquat 100xe2x80x9d, xe2x80x9cMerquat 550xe2x80x9d and xe2x80x9cMerquat Sxe2x80x9d by the company Calgon), quatemary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone, quaternary polymers of vinylimidazole, crosslinked homopolymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, copolymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures of any of the foregoing may be used.
The at least one cationic polymer is present in an amount generally ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, such as from 0.01% to 10% by weight and further such as from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final composition.
The compositions of the invention can also comprise at least one surfactant chosen from anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants, which is generally present in an amount ranging from approximately 0.1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as from 3% to 40% and further such as from 5% to 30%.
The at least one surfactant chosen from anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants, which are suitable for carrying out the present invention are, for example, the following:
(i) Anionic Surfactant(s)
In the context of the present invention, their nature is not of critical importance.
Representative anionic surfactants include salts (for example alkaline salts, such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts and magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; alkyl sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, xcex1-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfosuccinamates; alkyl sulfoacetates; alkyl ether phosphates; acyl sarcosinates; acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates. The alkyl and acyl radicals of all of these various compounds can for example comprise from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radicals can for example be chosen from phenyl and benzyl groups.
For example, anionic surfactants can be chosen from fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acids, coconut oil acid and hydrogenated coconut oil acid and acyl lactylates in which the acyl radical comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms. At least one weakly anionic surfactant can also be used, such as alkyl-D-galactosiduronic acids and their salts, as well as polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C1-C24) alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and their salts, for example, those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups.
As a further example, the anionic surfactant can be at least one salt chosen from alkyl sulfate salts and alkyl ether sulfate salts.
(ii) Nonionic Surfactant(s)
Useful nonionic surfactants include compounds that are well known per se (see for example in this respect xe2x80x9cHandbook of Surfactantsxe2x80x9d by M. R. Porter, published by Blackie and Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178), the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference herein, and, in the context of the present invention, their nature is not a critical feature. Thus, nonionic surfactants can include polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and polyglycerolated fatty acids, alkylphenols, xcex1-diols and alcohols having a fatty aliphatic chain comprising, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide groups to range for example from 2 to 50 and for the number of glycerol groups to range for example from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides for example comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5, such as from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; polyethoxylated fatty amines for example comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14)alkylamine oxides and N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides. It will be noted that the alkylpolyglycosides are nonionic surfactants that can be suitable in the context of the present invention.
(iii) Amphoteric Surfactant(s)
Representative amphoteric surfactants, whose nature is not a critical feature in the context of the present invention, can be chosen from aliphatic secondary and tertiary amine derivatives in which the aliphatic radical is chosen from linear and branched chain radicals comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and comprising at least one water-soluble anionic group (chosen for example from carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate and phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1C6)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylsulfobetaines.
Representative amine derivatives include the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Pat. No. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354, the disclosures of which are incorporated by reference herein, and having the structures:
R2xe2x80x94CONHCH2CH2xe2x80x94N+(R3)(R4)(CH2COOxe2x80x94)xe2x80x83xe2x80x83(2)
in which:
R2 is chosen from alkyl radicals derived from an acid R2xe2x80x94COOH present in hydrolysed coconut oil, heptyl, nonyl and undecyl radicals,
R3 is chosen from xcex2-hydroxyethyl groups, and
R4 is chosen from carboxymethyl groups; and
R5xe2x80x94CONHCH2CH2xe2x80x94N(B)(C)xe2x80x83xe2x80x83(3)
xe2x80x83in which:
(B) is xe2x80x94CH2CH2OXxe2x80x2, with Xxe2x80x2 chosen from a xe2x80x94CH2CH2xe2x80x94COOH group and a hydrogen atom,
(C) is xe2x80x94(CH2)zxe2x80x94Yxe2x80x2, with z=1 or 2, and with Yxe2x80x2 chosen from xe2x80x94COOH and xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94CHOHxe2x80x94SO3H radicals,
R5 is chosen from alkyl radicals, such as (a) alkyl radicals of an acid R5xe2x80x94COOH present in oils chosen from coconut oil and hydrolysed linseed oil, (b) alkyl radicals, such as C7, C9, C11, and C13 alkyl radicals, and (c) C17 alkyl radicals and the iso forms, and unsaturated C17 radicals.
Such representative compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol C2M Concentrate by the company Rhxc3x4ne-Poulenc.
In the compositions in accordance with the invention, at least two surfactants of different types can be used. Representative compositions include compositions comprising (a) more than one anionic surfactant, (b) at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant, and (c) at least one anionic surfactant and at least one nonionic surfactant. In one embodiment, the composition can comprise at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant.
The at least one anionic surfactant used for example, can be chosen from (C12-C14)alkyl sulfates of sodium, of triethanolamine and of ammonium; (C12-C14)alkyl ether sulfates of sodium, of triethanolamine and of ammonium, oxyethylenated with 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide; sodium cocoyl isethionate; and sodium (C14-C16)-xcex1-olefin sulfonate, and used in combination with an amphoteric surfactant chosen from either: amphoteric surfactants such as the amine derivatives known as disodium cocoamphodipropionate and sodium cocoamphopropionate, sold for example by the company Rhxc3x4ne-Poulenc under the trade name xe2x80x9cMiranol C2M Conc(copyright)xe2x80x9d as an aqueous solution comprising 38% active material, and under the name Miranol C32; or amphoteric surfactants of zwitterionic type, such as alkylbetaines, for example the cocobetaine sold under the name xe2x80x9cDehyton AB 30xe2x80x9d as an aqueous solution comprising 32% AM by the company Henkel.
In one embodiment of the invention, the compositions can also comprise at least one cationic surfactant.
Representative at least one cationic surfactants can be chosen from salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amines; quaternary ammonium salts; imidazoline derivatives; and amine oxides of cationic nature.
The at least one cationic surfactant may, for example, be chosen from:
A) quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV) below: 
xe2x80x83in which:
the radicals R1 R2, R3, and R4, which may be identical or different, are independently chosen from linear and branched aliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, and aromatic radicals, such as C6-C20 aromatic radicals (for example, aryl and alkylaryl), wherein the aliphatic radicals can comprise hetero atoms such as, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens, and wherein the aliphatic radicals are chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkylacetate and hydroxyalkyl radicals, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;
Xxe2x88x92 is an anion chosen from halides, phosphates, anions derived from organic acids, (C2-C6)alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates.
The compounds of formula (IV) can be chosen from, for example, (a) compounds comprising at least two fatty aliphatic radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, (b) compounds comprising at least one fatty aliphatic radical comprising from 17 to 30 carbon atoms, and (c) compounds comprising at least one aromatic radical.
B) Quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium, such as, for example, the salts of formula (V) below: 
xe2x80x83in which:
R5is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example radicals derived from tallow fatty acid, R6 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, C1-C4 alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
R7 is chosen from C1-C4 alkyl radicals,
R8 is chosen from a hydrogen atom and C1-C4 alkyl radicals,
Xxe2x88x92 is an anion chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates.
For example, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, are independently chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example, radicals derived from tallow fatty acid,
R7 is methyl, and
R8 is hydrogen.
Such products are, for example, (1) Quaternium-27 (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, hereafter xe2x80x9cCTFAxe2x80x9d, 1997), i.e., xe2x80x9cRewoquatxe2x80x9d W75, W75PG, and W90, and (2) Quatemium-83 (CTFA 1997), i.e., xe2x80x9cRewoquatxe2x80x9d W75HPG, which are sold by the company Witco.
C) Diquaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI): 
xe2x80x83in which:
R9 is chosen from aliphatic radicals comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms,
R10, R11, R12, R13 and R14, which may be identical or different, are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom and alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to4 carbon atoms, and
Xxe2x88x92 is an anion chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.
For example, such diquaternary ammonium salts can comprise propane tallow diammonium dichloride.
D) Quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function. The quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function that can be used according to the invention are, for example, those of formula (VII) below: 
xe2x80x83in which:
R15 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl radicals and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl and C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
R16 is chosen from:
acyl groups of the following formula: 
wherein R19 is defined below,
linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and
a hydrogen atom;
R18 is chosen from:
acyl groups of the following formula: 
wherein R21 is defined below,
linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and
a hydrogen atom;
R17, R19 and R21, which may be identical or different, are independently chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based radicals;
n, p and r, which may be identical or different, are independently integers ranging from 2 to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
x and z, which may be identical or different, are independently integers ranging from 0 to 10;
Xxe2x88x92 is chosen from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions;
provided that the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 15, and that when x is 0, then R16 is chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and that when z is 0, then R18 is chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals.
In one embodiment, the R15 alkyl radicals may be linear and branched and further, for example, linear.
For example, R15 may be chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl and dihydroxypropyl radicals and further for example from methyl and ethyl radicals.
The sum x+y+z may for example range from 1 to 10.
When R16 is chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals, R16 may be long and comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R18 is chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, R18 may for example comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
R17, R19 and R21, which may be identical or different, can, for example, be independently chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C11-C21, alkyl and alkenyl radicals. x and z, which may be identical or different, can for example independently be chosen from 0 or 1.
y for example may be equal to 1.
n, p and r, which may be identical or different, can for example be independently chosen from 2 and 3 and in one embodiment equal to 2.
The anion for example can be chosen from halides (chloride, bromide, and iodide) and alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, anions derived from organic acids, such as acetate and lactate, and any other anions compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function, may be used.
As a further example, the anion Xxe2x88x92 can be chosen from chloride and methyl sulfate.
Further examples of ammonium salts of formula (VII) are those in which:
R15 is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals,
x and y are equal to 1;
z is equal to 0 or 1;
n, p and r are equal to 2;
R16 is chosen from:
acyl radicals 
wherein R19 is defined below,
methyl, ethyl and C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and
a hydrogen atom;
R18 is chosen from:
acyl radicals 
wherein R21 is defined below,
a hydrogen atom;
R17, R19 and R21, which may be identical or different, are independently chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based radicals, such as from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
The hydrocarbon-based radicals can for example be linear.
Representative compounds of formula (VII) are chosen from diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyidihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyidimethylammonium salts (for example chloride and methyl sulfate). The acyl radicals can for example comprise from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and can for example be obtained from plant oils, such as palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl radicals, these radicals, which may be independently chosen, may independently be identical or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of compounds chosen from triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamines and alkyldiisopropanolamines, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, and by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quatemization using an alkylating agent such as alkyl halides (such ad methyl and ethyl halides), dialkyl sulfates (for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl paratoluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin and glycerol chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart by the company Henkel, Stepanquat by the company Stepan, Noxamium by the company Ceca and Rewoquat WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
It is also possible to use the ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function, described in patents U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,874,554 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,137,180, the disclosures of which are incorporated by reference herein.
Representative quatemary ammonium salts of formula (IV) include tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl radical comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, for example behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, and, stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride sold under the name xe2x80x9cCepharyl 70xe2x80x9d by the company Van Dyk.
According to the invention, the at least one cationic surfactant can for example be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition, such as from 0.1% to 10%, from 0.5% to 7%, and further such as from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.
The composition of the invention can also comprise at least one additive chosen from thickeners, fragrances, nacreous agents, preserving agents, silicone sunscreens, non-silicone sunscreens, vitamins, provitamins, amphoteric, anionic and nonionic polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates, 18-methyleicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids, panthenol, volatile and non-volatile, cyclic and linear and crosslinked, modified and non-modified silicones, ceramides, pseudoceramides, plant, animal, mineral and synthetic oils, and any other additive conventionally used in cosmetics which does not substantially adversely affect the properties of the compositions according to the invention.
Generally, these additives are present in the composition according to the invention in amounts, for example, ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The precise amount of each additive is readily determined by those skilled in the art depending on its nature and its function.
The compositions in accordance with the invention can also be used for washing or treating at least one keratin material chosen from hair, skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, lips, scalp, and hair.
The compositions according to the invention can also be a detergent composition chosen from shampoos, shower gels, bubble baths and make-up-removing products. In this embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise a washing base, which is generally aqueous.
At least one surfactant forms the washing base and can be chosen from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic and cationic surfactants, such as those defined above.
The quantity and quality of the washing base are sufficient to give the final composition at least one of the following qualities, satisfactory foaming power and satisfactory detergent power.
According to the invention, the washing base can be present for example in an amount ranging from 4% to 50% by weight, such as from 6% to 35% by weight and even further such as from 8% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final composition.
Another subject of the invention is also a process for treating at least one keratin material, such as the skin and the hair, comprising applying a cosmetic composition as defined above to the at least one keratin material and optionally rinsing it out with water.
Thus, this process according to the invention allows maintenance of the hairstyle and treatment of, care of, washing of or removal of make-up from the skin, the hair or any other keratin material.
The compositions of the invention can for example be in forms chosen from rinse-out conditioners and leave-in conditioners; permanent-waving, straightening, dyeing and bleaching compositions; rinse-out compositions to be applied before a procedure chosen from dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and straightening the hair; rinse-out compositions to be applied after a procedure chosen from dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and straightening the hair; and rinse-out compositions to be applied between the two steps of a procedure chosen from permanent-waving and straightening the hair.
The compositions according to the invention can also be in a form chosen from aqueous and aqueous-alcoholic lotions for a care chosen from skin care and hair care.
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be in a form chosen from gels, milks, creams, emulsions, thickened lotions and mousses and can be used for treating at least one keratin material chosen from skin, nails, eyelashes, lips, and hair.
The compositions can be packaged in various forms chosen from vaporizers, pump-dispenser bottles and aerosol containers in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of a mousse. Such packaging forms are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a mousse for treating the hair.
In all of the text hereinabove and hereinbelow, the percentages expressed are on a weight basis.
The invention will now be illustrated more fully with the aid of the examples which follow, which should not be considered as limiting it to the embodiments described. In the examples, AM means active material.